DSquared2’s runway presentation for next autumn-winter was a history of warfare through its costumes, from Mongolian warriors to modern-day fighters in khaki and camouflage.
Fittingly, the Canadian designing twins Dean and Dan Caten showed their collections in the courtyard of a military academy and reserved front-row seats for the commander and an aide dressed in military finery for a real-world reference point.
From khaki and camouflage jodhpur-style knickers with cropped jackets and tops of lace, ruffles and leather, the designers travelled back in time and across the globe to the Asian steppes for elaborate fur-trimmed coats with high collars, multiple lapels and embroidered panels.
The looks were fiercely layered with a plethora of military detailing. Tassels flounced from ears, belts and shoulders. Necklaces and belts had detailing worthy of the armour of a proud warrior.
The final look recalled the other side of a warrior’s tale: A naval widow in a Victorian-style satin jacket with lacey top over a long black skirt with trailing pleated bustle.