The first thing I noticed upon entering Prime 68, located on the 68th floor of the JW Marriot Marquis, is that this is exactly the kind of place you can imagine James Bond ordering his favourite shaken-not-stirred beverage, which he sips as he eyes the film’s resident femme fatale.
It also helped that Chris Cornell’s You Know My Name, written for the Casino Royale soundtrack, was playing. In another homage to Daniel Craig’s first Bond venture, a few 007-themed playing cards lie on the table.
Proceedings commence with beef tartar served in miniature ice cream cones, whose crunch complements the soft meat. Next up is a platter containing at least five types of cheese – including blue, Cheddar and a delightful bit of brie – alongside organic mustard and beef truffle salami.
Three salads were placed on the table immediately after, the avocado “Goddess” sauce coming with a wedge of lettuce a highlight. Then came foie gras in three forms: a port grape parfait, lollipop – coated with blueberry cotton candy(!) – and terrine with persimmon compote.
A fresh tuna tartare was next, prepared tableside and served with mint, chilli and arugula. Tender “boardwalk-style” crab cakes were then served along with a mushroom soup martini, short rib pretzel bites (in mousse and Gorgonzola sauce) and some luscious Wagyu meatballs.
It is finally time for the mains, and I’m keenly awaiting the Josper-grilled Australian tenderloin. Despite having consumed enough to feed a small family or two, I still find room within myself to bite into the medium-done meat, which I braise with chimichurri sauce. There’s also a béarnaise that goes nicely atop a rib-eye cut (also Aussie). Uncle Sam’s brought some beef too – US prime short ribs served with polento and “natural jus”. However, as this course is called “The World is not all Beouf” there’s also a tender pan-seared sea bass fillet in lemon butter sauce, served with marinated shrimp. Oh, and truffle mac and cheese, steak house fries, delectable roasted balsamic mushrooms, sour cream mashed potato and asparagus.
The dessert platter features the standard good stuff, including citrus cheesecake and salted caramel brownie...
But the star of this show is the 068 Secret Dessert Service: eclairs dipped in crushed pistachio, red velvet, and others.
We loved The views are what gives the restaurant the name Prime. They are accentuated further by mirrors on either side of each table. That we were able to finish the Josper-grilled Aussie beef tenderloin after consuming a mini banquet beforehand is a testament to its quality.
We hated Traffic coming into the hotel is annoying.
Verdict If you’re looking to make a good impression while showing someone Dubai, this place has a view to kill.
Details From Dh495; call 04 414 3000; JW Marriott Marquis
