This Far Eastern restaurant might veer from its street food mandate, but that’s not entirely a bad thing. After all, who doesn’t like dressing up as well as dressing down on occasion?
The ambience: Very casual. It doesn’t really get super busy, but there’s lots of activity at the home delivery station.
What we loved: In the pomelo salad, the fruit lacks that punch of flavour associated with the East, so it verges on being drowned out by spice, save for a lovely tartness that shines through. That said, this dish has a very complex flavour profile, with the addition of onion, spicy coriander and both lemon juice and chilli paste as dressing, and a sprinkling of peanuts, which also adds great texture.
The soft-shell crab isn’t quite crispy, but the meat is cooked well to retain its flavour. This is a subtle dish, but it leaves an impression. The banana fritters are more that than the intended pisang goreng — the batter is found wanting — but it’s light enough to go well with rich and creamy ice cream and a drizzling of honey.
Aromatic lemongrass juice complements it all — it’s a great new addition to the menu.
What we didn’t: Each item is served as soon as it’s ready, so check when you order what — or order as you go along.
The verdict: The staff are helpful and friendly, the food is about as close an approximation of regional cooking as you can get, and they deliver in no time (yes, I’ve ordered in since this visit). What’s not to like?
The details: Seven Sands Hotel Apartments, Al Barsha 1, 04 323 4211, chimesdubai.com
