Hamburg boasts more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam put together, but, perhaps unfairly, it isn’t as fondly recalled as those two cities in the quaint stakes. It also bears all the hallmarks of a busy industrial port, but the second largest city of Germany is so much more than just a sailor’s stopover. Here are five steps to help you get to the heart of the place.
FOLLOW IN THE FAB FOUR’S FOOTSTEPS
The Beatles may be more synonymous with Liverpool, but it’s actually Hamburg where the band was formed in the early 1960s, perfected its act and made its first recording. A sculpture of the group sits on the crossroads of the Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit in Beatles Platz, St. Pauli. But you can also see the door of Jager-Passage at Wohlwillstrasse 22 where John Lennon posed for the cover of the Rock ’n’ Roll album, and a couple of the clubs — The Indra Club and Kaiserkeller — where the group started out are still open for business. “I was born in Liverpool but I grew up in Hamburg,” said Lennon. For tours visit www.hempels-musictour.com
TAKE IN A GAME
Most football teams claim to be more than a club, but St. Pauli truly is. Hijacked by a thriving punk rock scene, The Buccaneers became the antithesis of what German terrace culture stood for in the 1980s, taking their left-wing, anti-fascist and anti-capitalist ideals to the masses. Football is just something that goes on in the background on match days, while fans — most of whom originally didn’t even like the game — organise political rallies and raise funds for social change while waving skull and crossbones flags to the sound of AC/DC’s Hells Bells. For tickets visit www.stpauli-fanladen.de
GRAB A BITE TO EAT
As the name suggests, Hamburgers originated from Hamburg, or, at least the meat patty part containing mince and onion bound with egg did. Mass migration from Germany to America from 1850 to the 1930s saw the Germans take what they call the Frikadellen stateside, where bread buns, ketchup and fries were later added to make it the meal we love today. No trip to Hamburg is complete without sampling a genuine Hamburger. The Bird on Trommelstr 4 near Hein Kollisch Platz claims to serve the best burger in town. For menu information and reservations visit www.thebirdinhamburg.com
PACE A FILM SET
A Most Wanted Man, Philip Seymour Hoffman’s last film before his death from a drug overdose in February, was set in Hamburg. From Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy and The Constant Gardener to the 2014 British espionage-thriller based on John le Carre’s 2008 novel of the same name, all the films showcase the city’s allure in its truest form. From the red-brick warehouse district overlooking the cobbled streets and canals to a skyline pockmarked with port cranes, spires and modern architecture, Hamburg is a director’s dream. To find out more about the film and get a feel of the city before you arrive visit www.amostwantedmanmovie.com
TAKE A RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE
Over 8000 bikers run amok through Hamburg every July for Europe’s largest Harley Davidson festival, attracting over half a million visitors from all over the world to the three-day spectacle. The Harley Days Hamburg Rally involves bike auctions, demo rides, stunt shows and live music, before a 33km parade through the city, which finishes with a procession down the Reeperbahn. To find out more about the festival visit www.hamburgharleydays.de
TRAVEL AND STAY
For Hamburg hotels, events and other tourist information visit www.hamburg.de
Emirates flies direct to Hamburg from Dubai daily, while Etihad Airways has twice daily direct flights from Abu Dhabi to Munich, from where you can fly onwards to Hamburg with their partners Air Berlin.
