Dubai’s new Four Seasons hotel doesn’t need a chandelier in its lobby.
Perfectly framed in a two-story window is the impossibly blue Arabian Gulf, the first thing guests will see as they walk into the lobby on opening day this Sunday.
It was dazzling enough to stop me in my tracks, and I’ve seen everything a five-star Dubai hotel can throw at you (hello, hot-pink duplex suites!).
The first entry for the Four Seasons into the UAE (one had been planned on the Creek, before the downturn; a property is now under construction in Abu Dhabi on Al Maryah Island) is in an unusual, and priceless, location: Jumeirah Beach Road. Anyone driving down the road in the last year has probably wondered what’s going on inside the development, so here’s a sneak preview of the exciting things to come — from a New York nightclub to a magical couple’s spa treatment.
UAE residents can really get stuck in — something F&B director Florence Zwicky (another Beverley Wilshire veteran) says is an important part of the hotel’s presence in Jumeirah.
“With the restaurant village, we have doubled the offering of options for guests and residents ... [it’s] a one-stop shop. You don’t have to drive to the Marina or DIFC. We are right in the middle and we have lots of options to combine with a spa treatment, with retail, or to cater any private function.”
That Restaurant Village is the plant-covered building on Beach Road, home to five concepts, still to open, and managed by outside companies. You’ve heard there will be a nightclub: We can confirm it’s Provocateur, a super-exclusive and intimate New York club that will be on the top floor.
“It’s a super-sophisticated, stylish, sexy venue to complement our rooftop lounge, which is open-air,” continued Zwicky.
French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, known for blending European and Asian cuisines, will operate one fine-dining and one casual concept. Last but not least, there’s Nusret, a Turkish steakhouse, and Coya, a London-based modern Peruvian restaurant.
The main hotel building is five storeys, with a rooftop bar and restaurant, Mercury Lounge, that gives a unique view over low-rise Jumeirah and the entire Shaikh Zayed Road skyline. A party with a view of the Burj Khalifa and resident DJ Opolopo on New Year’s Eve here will set you back Dh2,015 (get it?). If you’ve driven past the hotel, you may have spied turrets, which are actually private majlis areas.
There are 237 rooms, of which 49 are suites, and three are special suites — presidential, royal and penthouse — all inside the hotel overlooking the sea. There are two pools, one for families and one a peaceful adult oasis, and every hour, staff will come by with a treat — think ice cream, fruit. Want them to leave you alone? We can’t imagine why you would, but you do have a do-not-disturb button on your lounger, should you feel that way.
The beach and pool areas are open to hotel guests only, but don’t wail, Dubai residents: You can enjoy the beachfront from Sea Fu, a licenced seafood restaurant that has a large terrace on the shoreline. It’s one of five food and beverage outlets in the hotel, and serves both Asian and Mediterranean treatments of seasonal seafood. When I walked in on Thursday, the chef was cooking up a pot of bouillabaisse, which was to be served two ways, classic French style; the broth and the fish. But beside him in the open kitchen is a row of flaming woks, testament to the dual cuisines served; think crudo vs sashimi; whole fish roasted in salt, or grilled, Japanese-style.
Overseeing the food is executive chef Gilles Arzur, a Frenchman whose previous posting was at Los Angeles’ Beverly Wilshire — yes, that’s the hotel in Pretty Woman, where the bathtub is bigger than the Blue Banana. Saying it would be easier to count the non-celebrities than celebrities he’s cooked for, Arzur comes across as undaunted by the UAE’s seen-it-all hotelgoers.
“Sea fu... is not a fusion. It’s very authentic dishes from both sides,” explained Arzur. “A few items are sharing on the table, like crudo, peking duck with mango, then of course on the main course we have simple grilled fish, very simple, but high end quality fish, from Japan or Europe, wherever the season is. Guests can choose sides that are Asian or Mediterranean, a couple of sauces. Something that will come in a couple of days is a nice seafood platter. You want to spend time and enjoy. There’s no pressure. Its not a stiff approach – you’re on the beach. We want guests to be relaxed.”
All-day dining is at Suq, with live cooking stations including a pizza oven, a juice bar (kale included — should any LA celebrities drop in), a coffee bar and in-house bakery with the feel of a rustic French shop. Food here is also served on an outdoor terrace. Then there’s the sunny afternoon-tea-ready Shai Salon, and the more masculine Hendricks, all deep purple velvet and cigars.
Spa junkies: Treatments at the Pearl Spa use Natura Bisse and Sodashi products. If you’ve got an anniversary or honeymoon planned, the private couples treatment suite is one not to miss: There’s a massage room, wet treatment room with a huge bathtub, a private relaxation room and the kicker — a couple’s rasoul room. Get in, get covered in three kinds of spa mud and lounge on steamy, warm marble. You don’t really know your partner until you’ve seen them head-to-toe in mud, right?
