As a taco fanatic, I can relate to Jason Wyrick. I don’t have Mexican ancestors like he does, but growing up in West Texas I fell hard for Mexican food. So when I read the introduction to his new book, Vegan Tacos, and reached the statement that the cuisine “is still my absolute favorite food in the world”, I was hooked.
When the attraction to Mexican food meets the need for speed, tacos are the answer. There are hard tacos, soft tacos, rolled and fried tacos, even — gasp — tacos in flour tortillas, which despite all the scoffing from corn-tortilla snobs such as myself actually have some basis in tradition in northern Mexico (not to mention the American Southwest).
Vegetarian tacos aren’t much of a stretch, as I’ve written before: mushrooms, corn, peppers, eggplant, cauliflower and so many other vegetables can taste right at home in those tortillas. Wyrick proves that tacos can easily accommodate a vegan diet, too. Brightened with pungent salsas and sprinkled with nuts, vegetables have little to no need for cheeses to make them shine.
Wyrick adds mock meats a little more than I typically do, but he also offers tempting recipes for making your own: his mushroom chorizo is on the list for my next day of project cookery.
I approached my most recent taco night the way I think about most of my cooking, based on what I have around and what I crave. My garden was spilling over with Swiss chard and zucchini, I always have pumpkin seeds in the house, and that put me most of the way towards making a Wyrick recipe that features all three ingredients. The thing is, it also features a mole sauce, and as I was putting it together, that was a deal-breaker for me.
Not that I think it would necessarily be bad. But I was so excited about the chard I had wilted in a tart and garlicky sauce (mojo de ajo) and the batons of zucchini that seared almost black in a hot skillet that I wanted to eat them as is rather than weigh down the zucchini in a sauce as rich and complex as mole.
Instead, I layered them in tortillas, threw some pumpkin seeds on top, and followed his instructions to lightly sprinkle the whole affair with a dusting of chili powder. Each bite brought waves of fresh and smoky, tangy and deep flavours. I’ll confess to also crumbling some feta on top, but vegans, you can leave it out — or use your favourite soya- or nut-based substitute instead.
SEARED ZUCCHINI AND WILTED CHARD TACOS
4 to 6 servings (makes 12 tacos)
Lightly charred zucchini adds an almost meaty element to these tacos, moistened by tangy and garlicky greens.
MAKE AHEAD: The greens and the zucchini can be cooked and refrigerated separately up to one week in advance; reheat in a low oven before assembling the tacos.
Based on a recipe in Vegan Tacos, by Jason Wyrick (Vegan Heritage Press, 2014).
Ingredients
2 medium zucchini (about 450g)
1/2 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to taste
1 bunch (about 450g) Swiss chard
1 tbs extra-virgin olive oil
8 plump garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tbs fresh lime juice
Twelve 6-inch corn tortillas, warmed
3/4 cup crumbled feta or queso fresco (optional)
1/4 cup roasted, salted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tsp ancho chili powder
Steps
Set a large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Cut the zucchini into 3/4-inch-by-3-inch batons. Use 1/4 tsp of the salt to season them, then place them in a single layer in the skillet, working in batches to avoid crowding. Cook without disturbing them for about 2 minutes or until the zucchini are deeply browned on one side, then use a spatula to scrape them up and turn them over. Cook on the second side for another minute or two, until lightly browned and slightly softened. Transfer to a plate.
Remove the skillet from the heat and let it cool for a few minutes.
Strip the chard leaves from the stems, keeping them separate. Thinly slice the stems. Stack the leaves, roll them and slice them into 1/2-inch strips.
Return the skillet to the stove top over medium heat, and pour in the oil. Scatter the garlic in the pan; cook until lightly browned and tender, 3 or 4 minutes. Use a fork to mash the garlic, then stir in the lime juice and the chard stems. Cook, stirring frequently, until the stems start to soften but still have a little crunch, 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the chard greens and stir just until they are wilted, 1 or 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 tsp of salt. Taste, and add salt as needed.
Assemble the tacos by topping each tortilla with 3 or 4 zucchini strips, a few tablespoons of chard (lightly drained to prevent soggy tacos), 1 tbs of the feta or queso fresco, if using, 1 tsp of pumpkin seeds and a light sprinkling of ancho chili powder.
Nutrition per serving (based on 6): 170 calories, 6g protein, 25g carbohydrates, 6g fat, 1g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 370mg sodium, 5g dietary fibre, 3g sugar
— Washington Post
