Dubai: “Christmas without turkey is no Christmas,” says Glee Hospitality’s David Cotton at The Gramercy gastro-pub in Dubai. The Briton who has grown up having roast turkey every Christmas Day calls it “the most important meal of the year”.
For expats like him, preparations for the much-awaited Yuletide meal perhaps top the festive agenda ahead of the big day next week. From putting up trees, adorning them and buying carefully thought out gifts to fair hopping, carol singing and party planning, there’s plenty of exciting things to do. But turkey will remain the special treat. And not without reason.
As family and friends meet up for Christmas, turkey is the mainstay of their sit down feast. Over the centuries, the large bird, which can feed a crowd almost, has come to symbolise a sense of celebration, warmth and togetherness.
Family reunion
“Christmas is all about reuniting with your family and friends. Turkey, somehow, has been an essential element of this reunion,” says The Gramercy’s Filipino chef Nelson.
Ace Cabral, the American head chef at Al Qasr restaurant in Madinat Jumeirah, says: “Turkey is a symbol of appreciation during the festivities – whether it is Thanksgiving or Christmas. It gives loved ones sitting at the table a chance to express their gratitude for all that they have.”
Chefs from other parts of the world too agree. Vishal Rane, head chef at the Indian restaurant La Porte des Indes, says: “Turkey has always been associated with celebrations. In Europe, any festive meal would be incomplete without the turkey. It’s a dish that every household bonds over during lunch or dinner. It’s similar to how celebrating Eid involves tucking into some delectable sheer korma because it’s the food that makes every festival a special one.”
Similarly, Executive Chef Fabio Nompleggio at Frankie’s Italian Bar and Grill, says: “Around the world, turkey on the Christmas feast table signifies happiness, with delicious food being shared by the entire family enjoying the holiday, while also praying for the coming New Year.”
Significantly, turkey has come to be widely acknowledged as the ultimate Christmas preparation despite other customs in some countries. In Italy for instance, Nompleggio says: “The capon is equivalent to turkey in our tradition and has a variety of preparation styles such as the capon broth or tortellini filled with capon.”
Regional influence
Turkey is not a traditional dish in India either, but Rane says: “Nonetheless, there are Indians who love to have turkey and the preparation style differs with the region. A big oven cannot be seen in a conventional Indian household, so it’s common for the bird to be cooked in smaller portions.”
Cabral, however, vouches for the classic recipe in the Americas where roast turkey with sage and bread stuffing is served with mashed potatoes and vegetables, pumpkin soup and pecan pie. “We have a Christmas market at the Madinat Jumeirah from December 17-27 and our family brunch includes this roast turkey in the buffet.”
Besides the taste and warmth that it nurtures, turkey has another factor going in its favour - its affordability. According to one chef, the reason why large poultry is preferred for festivities is because they do not entail a huge economic sacrifice. The rates in Dubai are reasonable. “You can get a good turkey weighing around 6kg for Dh200,” says Cotton.
