Emirati designer Zareena Yousif’s mystical Arabian Nights-themed collection was the strongest presentation so far at the three-day Fashion Forward event. The day began with Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea, the Italian-Argentinian duo behind Dubai label Taller Marmo, who also brought some Arabesque sensibility via their ready-to-wear collection. Rather fitting for a day which saw industry experts discuss the massive potential of conservative fashion and how Dubai can take the lead.
Zareena
Emirati designer Zareena Yousif started designing in 1994 before she launched her eponymous label. And as the first few models walked out on Sunday night, it quickly became apparent that this is one designer who’s perfected her craft while staying distinctly different.
A near-flawless collection, each of Yousif’s 42 pieces spoke volumes of her experience as a designer and her understanding of the needs of her predominantly Middle Eastern clientele. That’s not to say her work is only likely to be appreciated by one group of people. Both regal and feminine, it’s safe to say they wouldn’t look out of place on any catwalk.
Inspired by Arabian Nights, Yousif’s clothes took on interesting proportions as she played with layers — one three-tiered dress was a highlight — and finished each of them with rich embroidery. It’s like she took the kaftan, turned it on its head, and then gave it a flourish worthy of royalty.
“I want the woman wearing it to feel like a princess,” she told me later.
Yousif said she referenced Gulf and other Middle Eastern traditions to achieve the looks. All models wore tiered hair extensions, making them look four feet taller.
Interestingly, Sunday also saw a panel discussion on ‘Modest Fashion in Modern Times’, looking at the potential of the modest fashion industry.
Zareena said she didn’t really see herself in that category. “I am an ethnic designer and that has always been the Zareena identity. It’s not going to change,” she said. “But any of my clothes can be worn anywhere. I have never created clothes specifically for the so-called modest market.”
If organisers were looking for designers to represent design ethos from the region but with global appeal, then they’ve clearly found it in this Emirati designer.
Taller Marmo
Taller Marmo’s 29-piece collection has something for everyone, is utterly wearable — but you won’t find an unforgettable fashion moment. “The collection is for a very self-assured woman who will be modest and sexy, on her own terms, as her mood dictates” explained the designers. This is not a new fashion manifesto; frankly it leaves the drawing board open to anything and everything — and that is exactly what we got. Be it their sheer dresses (didn’t we bury them last season?), jumpsuits or flowy kaftan-esque creations that only a model can carry off, the designer duo’s latest collection does not present any fashion risks or unseen creative directions. It does, however, trump in the use of some quality fabrics — born out of a collaboration with an Italian fabrics company that supplies to the likes of Chanel and Gucci. In that, the collection represents a high level of finish that the region’s burgeoning fashion industry should aspire to. Another commendable quality was the consistency of the collection. From the colour range — undulating from blush and ivory to moody greys, blues and black — to the cuts that never veered from being anything but comfortable on the body and a subtle use of muted gold weaves and patterns, the young designers have displayed restraint well beyond their label’s age in fashion years. So yes, the duo has it in them. Now can we please have that jaw-dropping moment?
Tahir Sultan
What a difference a season makes. And a supportive sponsor. Kuwaiti-Indian designer Tahir Sultan’s luxurious holiday vibe was a definite step up from his last collection. Supported by W Retreat Maldives, the collection was an ode to the island resort and Sultan didn’t hold back on his references. There were reef-inspired prints, turquoise gowns reflecting the waters and patterns that mirrored the corals. An interesting addition was menswear, also inspired by the uniforms of the resort’s staff. But here, the designer introduced his own touch, and brought out long coats without lapels and matching shirts and shorts rich with prints. There were also life-jacket inspired jackets with puffy shoulders. If the designer went a little overboard with his promotion of the resort (models wore the hotel’s logo) he could well be forgiven for an elegant and accomplished collection that’s seen him outdo himself.
Dany Tabet
Lebanese designer Dany Tabet’s glittery and shiny models sported a generous use of embroidery. With sheer, lots and lots of sheer, the collection was sexy and refined, if not slightly recurrent. Comprising mostly evening wear, Tabet didn’t really bring anything new to the table. But his expertise showed on the rich handiwork that told his story inspired by the desert. A desert, he explained later, that once was mystical is now filled with glittery buildings and, in some places, tanks, war and destruction.
Endemage
Omani sisters Lubna and Nadia Zakwani took us to Zanzibar for their tropical collection for their label Endemage. Leaves were a predominant motif, as prints, patterns and shapes laser-cut on fabrics. White dominated, but there were also shades of green and pink. The clothes flowed — a dip hem dress here and a billowy skirt there.
