The third day of Amazon India Couture Week 2015 unveiled some of its finest design creations.
While Varun Bahl welcomed us into a garden of roses — real and imaginary — Anju Modi’s beautiful ensemble of 22 pieces took us back in time. Monisha proved the wild card, coming up with an exquisite marine-inspired collection and presented a showstopping dress worn by equally stunning actress Kriti Sanon. Here’s a round-up of Friday’s shows from the Taj Hotel in New Delhi.
Varun Bahl’s garden of Eden
Roses were the theme of the day. Rose hues, unopened buds and full bloom roses filled the catwalk — on it, above it and on the sides. Taking inspiration from the poet Khalil Gibran’s Song Of The Flower, Bahl’s collection of the same name included saris, sari-gowns, anarkalis (long flowing shirts cinched at the waist, worn over drainpipe trousers), lehngas, kurtas, trouser suits in silk, satin, velvet and delicate chiffon, georgette and organza. The range started with whites and pastels, moving to reds and oranges and on to deeper black, each with brilliant embroidery and prints from different parts of India.
“All my collections have been inspired by flowers. All embroidery is done by hand. I wanted the flowers to come alive — I wanted them to look real,” Bahl said.
The collection presented some perfect pieces for a young Indian bride who’d rather not wear the traditional red and gold. Elegant lehngas and saris in coloured resham (thread) embroidery matched steps with the simpler cuts for men. The reversed vests for the guys, either in flower prints or with delicate embroidery around the edges, stood out.
The collection needed no star showstopper, felt Bahl. But actor Randeep Hooda introduced his dear friend’s collection and Dum Laga Ke Haisha actress Bhumi Pednekar was also present, showing support in a simple Bahl creation.
Anju Modi steps back in time
It was refreshing to see that while all designers were creating fusion and contemporary looks, Anju Modi of RamLeela, Goliyon Ki Rasleela fame turned traditional instead, with her collection Kashish, which means “attraction” in Urdu.
Her small ensemble of just 22 pieces took one back into the homes of the nawabs and rajwadas, even though Modi said her inspiration lay in Persia. “In my new film Bajirao Mastani, the character Mastani is from Persia. This is a presentation reflecting that,” said the designer of her upcoming film directed by Sanjay Leela Bhansali and her collection. “Moreover, the region has a rich poetic culture. You have Rumi and Khalil Gibran from there. And most of their work talks of a yearning for the beloved and the beloved is God.”
Modi said lot of the motifs embroidered on the clothes were inspired by Mughal art and architecture.
“But culture today is becoming hybrid,” said Modi. “Indian, European, Persian today is blending into one modern take”.
The collection included predominantly lehngas with a sari and a sharara [palazzo pants] in combinations of turquoise, mint green, gold and yellows, pinks and reds with gold zardozi and tarkashi (gold thread embroidery), sitara work (sequins) and silver foil printing. Delicate sheer chanderis allowed intricate Benarsi brocades to peep through. Period jewellery from Sunar Jewellers, one of the show’s sponsors, complemented and completed the looks.
Men — just three — looked dapper in midnight blue and gold sherwanis paired with pagris (turbans).
Modi also preferred to keep a simple rather than a dramatic backdrop to showcase her collection.
The bride sets sail
Monisha Jaising’s bride is a rebel. She wants to party on a yacht and show off her tattoos just as much the henna on her hands. She wants to be a beautiful traditional bride yet without giving up her comfort. No high-heeled Louboutins for this bride. She steps out in bridal — wait for it — Converse sneakers. And to top it all she wears a sporty T-shirt with a lehnga made of jersey cloth.
Jaising presented a collection that evoked mixed emotions. At times it felt she reached nautical brilliance with her works in sea green, pastel and white sari-gowns, gowns, slit dresses with shorts, brilliant sheer black pants and jackets. Then you’d wonder why she’d dress the bride’s friends in huge black garbage bags. But the jersey showstopper is more than enough to overlook all else.
Bollywood actress Sanon happily walked the deck in her jersey lehnga.
