In a world where the hip and the now are celebrated unquestioningly, where newness is embraced in and of itself, and where anything laced with a patina of age is discarded without a second thought, it’s good to return to a place like Hofbräuhaus.
Stepping into its hallowed halls is like entering a beer hall from a time gone by. And that’s exactly the idea. Fit out like a little tavern in a little German town, it’s meant to invoke the original Hofbräuhaus and reference the brand’s legacy, which dates back to 1589 Munich.
Yes, it’s dimly lit and the paint on the walls is faded — a manmade recreation, naturally — and the picnic-style tables and benches in the central hall carry the scars of many a debauched night, but rather than detract from an evening out they add something invaluable: character. The altmodisch outfits of the staff add to the old-world charm of this restaurant. Smaller family-style tables in little alcoves off the centre carry the blue-and-white lozenges of the Bavarian flag, reinforcing a sense of locality.
The menu could also date from the 16th century. The focus is on hearty fare, presented without fuss. The dishes are deceptively unassuming, and don’t pull their punches in the flavour department. Bold is beautiful seems a mantra. And the portions are more than generous — ample refreshment to revive a weary spirit after a day slaying dragons, or whatever people did for fun back then.
We start with a selection of cold cuts and breads and Bavarian cheeses on plate with delicate crackers, juicy grapes and walnuts. The pork-heavy menu features surprisingly good alternatives. My roasted farmer’s duck is a moist, rustic affair paired with the vinegary sourness of red cabbage and another regional speciality — kartoffelknödel, or potato dumplings.
Since it would be sacrilege to not have sausages, we order the beef variant on the side, but what makes it to the table is the longest sausage I’ve ever seen, taking up the length of the rectangular plate. Piping hot and lightly spiced, this is a definite must-try, especially with grainy mustard.
Dessert is a rather forgettable Black Forest cake, but this hardly matters as by this time the Oktoberfest band is in full swing in their dirndl and lederhosen, leading a festive sing along of popular, upbeat ditties.
Good food, fine tipple, warm hospitality — these qualities aren’t always created overnight. And Hofbräuhaus has it by the barrel.
Hofbräuhaus, JW Marriott Hotel Dubai, 04 607 7588
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