For someone who ‘fell into fashion by mistake’, German designer Philipp Plein hasn’t done too shabbily. With about 36 standalone stores, 500 stockists around the world so far and a turnover of more than €100 million (Dh467.9 million), his rock and roll aesthetics combined with his irreverent take on fashion has ensured his rise to stardom in just under a decade.
Plein, who discovered a knack for design when he was studying to become a lawyer, first started by designing furniture for friends. The part-time passion quickly became a full-time obsession, and the 36-year-old launched his eponymous fashion label in 2004, now headquartered in Switzerland.
“To be successful, you must be loud,” says Plein, known for his over-the-top presentations and a few scandalous campaigns including some by the notorious photographer Terry Rirchardson.
The designer, who opened his first Middle East store in Dubai in 2012, is returning to the city this week to speak at the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience (VFDE). tabloid! caught up with him before his trip to talk fashion, future plans and his latest obsession with KPop.
Q. Hello Philipp, welcome again to Dubai. What are you looking forward to doing the most this time, besides attending the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience?
A. The Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience is a great moment for me to catch up with my friends of the industry. We are always running around the world and it’s not often that we are together in an amazing place like Dubai where we can spend time having fun for a good cause.
Q. You were here at the VFDE event last year, what did you enjoy the most about the experience?
A. I really enjoyed the energy of this event. We all came there without any expectations and it turned out to be the best event I attended last year. I’m really looking forward to it.
Q. Tell us a little bit about the talk you’re giving: Excess/Success.
A. Nowadays, it’s really hard to build a brand. The industry is protected and the market doesn’t really need a new luxury brand. To be successful, you must be loud and fight to get into the big brands game. I don’t have any investors and I don’t work with banks. I build everything by myself. I think that a key of my success is that I was not playing the fashion rules and I didn’t care about what people would think. Maybe it was excessive and some of my campaign choices were very scandalous. But I got the attention of people. Once you reach a certain success, you can be more quiet, even if I still do excessive shows. Excess is in my nature.
Q. You opened your first Middle East store in The Dubai Mall in 2012. Tell us how you think your label has done so far.
A. It’s doing really good. I bet with my partner before he opened the store that he would reach a certain turnover. I cannot reveal the number but he reached it. The business keeps on growing. We will soon open a second store in Dubai.
Q. What is it about that the Philipp Plein aesthetic, would you say, that works so well in the region?
A. I think that my product works really well on a global level because I’m offering something different than what exists on the luxury market. I sell a dream, a lifestyle. Fashion has to be fun and make you happy and that’s what I try to communicate through my designs.
Q. We also hear you’re quite a KPop fan? How did that happen?
A. It all happened with the brand expansion in Korea. When I opened my first store in Seoul. a few key people from the entertainment industry discovered my brand and started to introduce it to Kpop celebrities. We suddenly became one of the hottest brand in the country and I was really shocked by the sales results over there. I decided to investigate on the Kpop culture which allowed me to reach a great success in the entire Asia continent. I have a close relationship with SM entertainment and we are working on some projects together.
Q. Besides your clothes, you’re all about showmanship. Why is that such an important component of who you are?
A. I have a lot of energy and I’m a serious dreamer. I realise my dreams and keep on dreaming.
Q. Would you say you are a good businessman?
A. I’m a businessman before being a designer. I fell into fashion by mistake. It was not planned.
Q. What would you say is the most German about the way you work?
A. I’m a control freak. I’m part of all the important decisions in the company. From design to finance, passing by marketing.
Q. What is next for you? Where would you like to take your label?
A. We are opening stores all over the world. I forecast 80 to 100 stores by the end of 2015. I’m working to make this project become an established global luxury brand.
