Palestinians generally exhibit a lovely sense of humour and often look on the bright side of their difficult life under occupation, especially when it pertains to their long walks around walls and through military checkpoints, which they traverse daily to reach their schools, universities, places of work and homes. They smile and thank the occupation for the rigorous physical exercise they are subjected to.
That is why recreational hiking is not only an odd thing for Palestinians but a luxury they can ill-afford to indulge in. But Stefan Szepesi, with his book “Walking Palestine”, which explores the country’s natural and cultural landscape, its intriguing past and present, and the hospitality of its people, has changed this perception — at least for foreigners. This has also started a whole new trend.
Today walking or hiking in Palestine has attracted many foreigners who take to the numerous pathways, blazing trails to seek a deeper understanding and perspective of the Holy Land, its people, its history and culture.
By hiking through Palestine’s deep desert gorges, along its tiny herders’ trails and over its quiet dirt roads running past silver-green olive groves, they come face to face with the character of Palestine and its people.
This development has also given new purpose and meaning to the lives of many professional guides.
Born in Caracas, Venezuela, Simon Jaser was just 4 when his family returned to Palestine. He spent 11 years in California schooling and working, but returned to his homeland after the signing of the Oslo Peace Accords in the late 1990s. He has stayed back since.
“I have been passionate about hiking for a long time. I grew up in Ramallah but I have always explored the hills and loved the land. Hiking provides peace of mind, an escape from the city into the olive groves. I am a person who loves the countryside, not crowded spaces. My dream is to live in a shack on an isolated hill.”
Asked what makes hiking in Palestine so special, Jaser is quick to point out that Palestine is unique. “Within this small geographical area, we have so many different climates and topographies. We are so blessed to have it all and we should not only enjoy it but save it for future generations,” he says.
Yet it is not all hunky dory, as Jaser explains, “The presence of colonisers, the military bases, closed military zones, especially in the Jordan Valley, and the confrontations with rabid colonists are the main obstacles we face on our hikes.”
Jaser readily admits that his particular group Walking Palestine was inspired and formed by Szepesi’s book of the same name. “Most hikers are Europeans, especially German, as hiking in Europe has had a long-standing tradition. They love to hike, unlike Palestinians, who think we are crazy doing 12- to 15-kilometre hikes. I tell them it is good for the soul and although hiking as a leisure activity is still in its infancy, I hope more of my people will join us in future.
“I am heartened by the recent initiative — ‘tijwal’, Arabic for hiking — taken up by university students. Once a month they take two busloads of students to various villages for hikes.”
Jaser, who considers himself an independent guide, explains that the profession is now lucrative for many, and Palestinian guides often coordinate with those who are more familiar with certain trails.
His speciality is the Ramallah area but he is quick to point out that he is also very familiar with Wadi Qelt, which takes hikers through a nature reserve, all the way from occupied Jerusalem to Jericho. This hike has assumed legendary status.
Then there is the Eco-Trail of Battir, near Bethlehem, which lies on the “Green Line” and which — owing to its ancient terraces and aqueducts — has been recently declared a Unesco Heritage site.
There is also The Abraham Path, which is a walking trail across the Middle East, with a significant part in Palestine. It traces the footsteps of Abraham — from Jenin to Hebron via Nablus, occupied Jerusalem, Jericho and then to Bethlehem. During the six-day trip, hikers pass through villages, deserts, olive orchards and sheep pastures, ancient ruins and cities. They stop overnight for meals and accommodation at the homes of residents and witness traditions that have lasted for thousands of years.
Jaser says, “The Siraj Center for Holy Land Studies in Beit Sahour is responsible for this hike, which is subsidised through funding by the United States and Europe, so it’s affordable and sustainable.”
“Every hike is an experience but the best is Wadi Qelt in the spring with its abundant flora which is a sight to see. Foreigners — even though the countries they come from themselves have stunning vistas — are fascinated by Palestine’s unique landscape,” Jaser says.
I joined Jaser on a Friday afternoon hike in the western part of Ramallah and talked at a local café, sipping freshly squeezed orange juice while waiting for a group of American women he was guiding.
We later drove to a point outside the city limits and walked down into a valley, heading to the village of Ein Qinya-Ein Boubin. It is one of the nicest trails near Ramallah with a distance of around 12 kilometres and lasts three hours, including breaks.
I was the only male apart from Jaser. “Seventy-five per cent of foreign hikers are women and they are very safe here,” he said.
During the hike, I experienced the much-talked about Palestinian hospitality first hand — beginning with a farmer handing us freshly harvested cucumbers to eat and insisting that we share his coffee. Then, as we headed for the cool shade of an ancient tree, we encountered a group of young men, enjoying a Friday afternoon barbecuing kebabs.
Without even being asked, they wrapped hot kebabs with barbecued tomatoes in pita bread and handed to all in the group. We learnt that they lived in New Orleans and were in the village on summer vacation. They had even brought along Cajun spices for the kebabs. Talk about the effects of globalisation.
Pleasantly surprised with the friendly disposition and hospitality accorded to them, our American hikers asked Jaser about it. “This happens on all our hikes. People always talk to foreigners and open their hearts to them,” he replied.
Walking through the village, we came across a wedding party and an immediate invitation was extended to the hikers, which we had to politely decline.
We then headed to the spring that marked the culmination of the walk. There, we rested our sore feet in the cool water.
At the end of the hike, I asked Jaser about his vision. “My dream is to not see a single Israeli colony. What they are doing to our hills is an eyesore and ugly. They flood our valleys with sewage, destroying farms in Palestinian villages. But I don’t think that would happen in my lifetime. It’s the harsh reality of living here.”
Driving back to Ramallah and listening to the experiences of the American hikers, I understood that Walking Palestine is a new phenomenon, a growing one and with guides such as Jaser, it does seem to have a bright future.
Rafique Gangat, author of “Ye Shall Bowl on Grass”, is based in occupied Jerusalem.
