The tiny city-state of Singapore served up sumptuous fusion food decades before the adjective became overused in the culinary world. The rich and diverse cuisine brings together the best spices and preparation styles from Malaysia, China, Indonesia, India and even Portugal, Britain, Thailand and Sri Lanka, and some of my fondest food memories come from time spent in Singapore when I was younger.
Strolling around the hawker centres, I remember eating an aromatic noodle dish with hints of turmeric served up by an Indian chef when I was seven, devouring a crab dish served by a Chinese cook that was so peppery it challenged my 10-year-old taste buds, and then there's the poached chicken rice dish I had at 23 that was so beautifully prepared that all other chicken dishes since have been judged by its standard.
It's because of these lingering taste memories that the second I found out there was a Singaporean restaurant in the Grand Hyatt, I called, booked a table and got ready for a journey.
Peppercrab is a restaurant that feels true to Singapore - it doesn't try to be too flashy or modern, and it successfully evokes the Asian-yet-European feel of the island. Walking in, you're greeted with muted woods, lazy Susans on the tables, gorgeous traditional ceiling fans and pictures of Singapore's history. And upon opening the menu you're greeted with the breadth of Singaporean cuisine. Starters range from live oysters with a punchy shallot dressing to impossibly crunchy yet beautifully seasoned thrice-fried baby squid and wok-fried carrot cake to tofu goreng with a rojak (mixed) sauce. Naturally, there is satay, but here it comes with an Indian achar pickle, exemplifying how Singapore fuses its food.
As for mains, you really can't get past the namesake of the restaurant - black pepper crab. While this is the most expensive thing on the menu, it feels truly decadent, and eating it is a sensory experience (don't be afraid to get your fingers dirty). The giant bowl of crabs, which are the size of rugby balls, come served with complex utensils, French bread (that fusion element popping up again) and a rich, buttery, peppery sauce that will exercise your taste buds. My date and I completely forgot our manners, cracking into the crab shells to discover a fantastic-quality and perfectly cooked crab meat.
However, if the crab is over your budget, or you don't want to get your hands dirty, try the Hainan fragrant rice with cold poached chicken. Although the dish gets its name from a region of China, it's often considered the national dish of Singapore, with the soft, tender and chilled meat the perfect texture, while the rich, stock-infused rice has a playful taste profile - touches of ginger here and there.
If post-crab and poached chicken you have any room left, we say try the hot, rich Fried bananas with vanilla sauce - or, if you're feeling a tad more refined, the Crème brulée that's artfully scented with jasmine tea. You will leave Peppercrab full, I can assure you of that, but I hope that you too, like me, leave with happy food memories, as these are the things that will last a lifetime.
Need to know
Restaurant Peppercrab
Location Grand Hyatt, Oud Metha
Tel 04 317 2222
Tasty trio: Singaporean
Noodle House
While this ubiquitous home-grown chain serves food from across Southeast Asia, its Singaporean dishes are some of its best, perhaps because they often consult with superstar Singaporean chef, Sam Leong. The creamy laksa and tender Singaporean-style duck are delicious, as are the thick bakmi noodles, which just drip with a sticky soy reduction.
Location Various locations including Souq Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai
Timing Daily 12pm-11pm
Tel 800 Noodle
Citrus
This Abu Dhabi buffet restaurant serves up Asian flavours every Saturday night, and as they consistently have so many Singaporean guests, the chefs make sure to hone in on some of the country's flavours. In fact, they tell us that if you turn up and there isn't anything Singaporean, to just ask and they'll whip you up something. Pay Dh175 to eat all you want and drink all the beverages possible - brava!
Location Millennium Hotel, Abu Dhabi
Timing 7pm-11pm, every Saturday
Tel 02 614 6020
Singapore Deli Café
Ten years ago, a Singaporean expat in Dubai started this small spot to cater for homesick Singaporeans who missed the genuine flavours of their country. One of the best dishes is Nasi Lemak, which pairs coconut rice with a combination of foods like small anchovy-style fish, nuts, fried fish and cucumber - Singaporean soul food if you will. They don't accept cards though, so take cash.
Location Trade Centre Road, Karama, Dubai
Timing Open daily 12pm-midnight (Fri 3pm-midnight)
Tel 04 396 6885
