Lipstick is one product that gets the vote in the ‘Can't live without this' category every time there is a beauty survey and rightly so. It is the most effective and quickest tool to give your looks a lift. The absence of eye make-up and/or cheek colour can be compensated for with just a dab of lip colour. In the first of a two-part series on lipsticks, Friday asks Dubai-based freelance make-up artist Jill Peters all about the classics among lip colours.
What are the classic lip colours?
Vintage red, deep maroon/plum and nude pink (close to your natural lip colour) are the three top classic lip colours. These can enhance and complement several make-up looks.
Of the three, deep maroon and nude pink are safe classics as these suit all skin tones. As for vintage red, though it is the most glamorous of the classic lip colours, it isn't an easy colour to wear. To pull off the look, you need the right shade of red for your skin, plus an attitude to match. Unsurprisingly vintage red can be categorised trendy as well as classic.
What makes these classic lip colours staples?
To put it simply, classics endure. Classic lip colours never go out of style, and most importantly, they flatter most women. Think of nude shades like beige; pink; natural peach; neutral pink with pearl; frosted neutral brown... Any shade from this palette is easy to wear and complements different make-up looks from deep smokey eyes or a played-down natural look. Deeper burgundy and maroon lipsticks are considered the safest ‘facelift' you can have; they introduce colour, yet aren't overpowering. Red lips rose to iconic status during the 1940-1950 Hollywood era with the red pouts of Marilyn Monroe, Katharine Hepburn, Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor and Jean Harlow.
Is adopting classic colours age specific?
Not at all. Regardless of age or skin tone, you can follow classic trends. You can introduce a modern touch with contemporary textures and colours both in lipsticks and in other make-up products.
How should mature women wear red?
The most important rule is to refrain from choosing the bright red shades like fire-engine red or cherry tones. Opt for the safer red hues such as plums, deep berry and aubergine shades. If you think the red is still too bright, tone it down. Here's a trick on how to achieve this: instead of applying lipstick by itself, blend it with a balm. Instead of applying lipstick straight from the bullet to the lips - which results in a heavy, unflattering effect - apply the colour using a lip brush, after lining the lips with a pencil. This has a more subtle and polished effect.
What are some common lipstick mistakes?
Contradictions are mostly related to seasonal beauty trends. What is often the hot lip shade on the catwalk - like fierce orange or electric blue - may not translate well in everyday reality.
Another contradiction is in the dated advice not to wear strong lip shades with strong eye make-up. While it is safe advice, strong eyes could complement red or aubergine lips beautifully, for instance, with the ‘cat eyes' look (flicked out eyeliner) or a soft smokey eye in a dark brown or grey.
How do you choose a flattering shade of a classic lip colour?
There are so many shades for each of the three classic lip colours. So it is important to get the shade right. I encourage you to take time when choosing. Don't just pick a colour because you saw a picture of your favourite celebrity wearing it. You need a shade that complements your skin tone.
For red, first consider the undertone of your skin. Generally, if you have a warm undertone, go for warm reds like coral. For a cool undertone, reds with bluish or aubergine tones work best. Don't know what your skin undertone is? Here's a quick way to figure it out: if gold jewellery suits you better than silver, you have a warm undertone; if vice versa, you have a cool undertone. If you look equally good in both metals, most reds will work for you.
To select the right nude shade, pick a hue closest to your natural lip colour or lighter than your skin tone. If you want a slightly deeper nude, opt for one shade darker than your natural lip colour. Rule of thumb: cooler nudes work for paler skin, warm nudes for olive or darker skin. Top nudes with a shimmery gloss - hints of silver, pink or gold - to enhance your pout. And don't forget the lipliner - imperative for a polished pout. In terms of application, the liner should be as close to the lipstick shade as possible. To find out if you are doing it right, ensure the liner disappears after you apply lipstick.
If a colour looks great on you, should you stick with it?
It's your choice, really. You can add flattering colours for the eyes and cheeks. If the lip colour isn't a real ‘classic' and you simply like it, make sure it isn't dated. Even classic colours are updated so switch to a more modern version of the shade.
Are classic colours always in a brand's palette?
Classic colours will remain in a brand's palette, but shades of the colour may be discontinued depending on its demand. Also a brand may retain some not-so-popular classic shades in its palette, but it might reinvent these by giving them an entirely new texture (matte or shimmer).
Having too many lipsticks can cause confusion. How do you put together a lipstick collection nthat works?
A great way to do this is to use an empty make-up palette. This is a fabulous tool to customise makeup; you can even condense lipsticks, concealers, blushes and shadows in one case. Visit your favourite beauty store or pharmacy and buy your favourite shades. Then crush these lipsticks into the various compartments of the palette so you have easy access to all colours.
Experiment with neutral or colour-rich lipstick wardrobes. Having a selection of colours also makes blending different shades together quick and easy. Most make-up artists mix two to three shades, sometimes even four, to custom-make a desired shade.
What is the etiquette on touching up lipstick in public?
I think it is best to do this in private (in the restroom), to give the illusion of looking great naturally and to maintain that air of feminine mystery so associated with beauty. Or you could do it with a hand mirror discreetly. Never do it during the course of a dinner date.
Why do lipsticks ‘sweat' - are they are ‘off'?
Lipsticks tend to ‘sweat' when the oil in them is released, usually due to hot weather conditions. The stick may smell waxy or like petroleum jelly; this indicates that the ingredients are no longer bound together and the product should be discarded. Note, the colour may still look good when applied, but it isn't safe.
What colours should we be on the lookout forthis season?
Classic lip shades are a strong feature. Neutral shades are being teamed with smoky eyes and cat eyes. In fact, natural iridescent skin is hot on the catwalk. Some of the stars sporting classic lip colours now are Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez, Emma Watson and Olivia Palermo. Red shades are worn in both matte and shimmer formulations by stars like Paloma Faith, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and Scarlett Johansson. On the runway (autumn/winter 2011), glossy scarlet red lips - a modern take on fashion trends of the 1940s - matched with pale matte skin have been featured by Dior, Gucci, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and Donna Karan.
